This gets a post all of its own as Spitzkoppe is stunning. One of the most beautiful places I have been to.

We are travelling slowly and really appreciate the gradual changes from the desert to scrub to savannah (I’m not sure of the official names, again, I’ll check this when I have good internet connection).

We entered Spitzkoppe by a gate and no idea what we we were entering. We were looking for the 8am porridge stop. We had entered long dry grasslands and it is windy.

I refuse to allow a fire to be lit. I didn’t use to be the one who made the decisions like this. It feels very unusual but I feel quite strongly that the responsibility falls on me. In this case, some think it will be safe enough but I disagree. I am not willing to risk setting fire to Namibia, I’m pretty sure that would be the end of the trip. I’m a bit surprised at my unilateral decision but that’s it. As a result, we can’t stop at the 10 mile point. I radio Emma and Mike to let them know. A couple of miles down the road we find this large rock formation with a natural wind break, and I agree, very nervously.

This journey is a constant risk assessment. I wouldn’t have risked an open fire but fortunately before we left, I bought an Ezy stove at a huge reduction from Wild Stoves and this is totally brilliant, even better than expected. The stove doesn’t allow any embers to float away and we bury the ashes and cover them with the water we use to wash the dishes. Phew!

Then we accidentally enter Spitzkoppe rest camp, which has some gorgeous areas to stay. Luckily, they kindly let us off the entry cost:

Emma stops for some more scenic stretching:

The support team has to head into Usakos for supplies, leaving Emma and Mike on their own. I am anxious the whole time. The roads are terrible compared to the UK but not bad once you get used to the juddering. I also learn to drive faster as that way we seem to glide over the top. I’m not sure if that is what happens in reality. We don’t get back until the early afternoon, leaving Mike to rig up some shade from the midday sun for Emma.

That night we park well off the road but it turns out to be out to be our scariest moment so far.

We end the day with lots of food. I believe in keeping a team well fed.

The desert is amazing and beautiful. Our days settle into a routine. 5.30am start. The stars are still out which is, of course, wonderful, “It makes getting up early worth it” I say to Mike and he agrees. Emma and Mike leave as soon as it is light. Emma running, Mike on the bicycle. We clean up the camp and set off. I am very strict in the desert. I’m not sure how quickly things decay here but I’m guessing slowly, so we have a “leave no trace” policy. Poo paper goes in the poo bag. Not everyone is happy with this but no-one wants toilet paper blowing across the desert.

I never knew there was so much life in the desert. We can see hoof prints round our camp.

At 8am (10 miles down the road) Robert lights a fire (he has become our fire man) and he calls, “Aysha, you’re wasting my fire.” I have to get snappy with the porridge. No milk, as we have no fridge. Porridge with salt. I know this sounds horrible but as long as you put it in at the beginning it tastes delicious. Then, after it is cooked, I add cinnamon and honey – in time, at the request of the team i also add two apples and a banana. Around eating, which must happen within 20 minutes of stopping, Emma needs a massage, sunflower oil works surprisingly well. Emma also needs to use her roller and to stretch.

9am Emma and Mike set off again for another 10 miles or so. We have to pick a nice spot for lunch.

11am is the long lunch break waiting for the heat of the day to pass. Eating, sleeping, repacking the back of the car, massage for Emma.

3pm Emma sets off again for her final 10 miles or so, depending how she is feeling.

The sand is tough to run, she slips back with every step and its harder on her leg muscles. The wind is also against her. At the end of the day, we only have wet wipes for her to wash off the dust and sand. Carrying only 100 litres of water in total for 5 people means we have to be careful with the water we use as we don’t know where we’ll fill up next. But I rarely hear any complaints from Emma.

Emma and Mike head off through Henties Baai and into the desert.

Fortunately, we have 100 litres of water, firewood, and a flame torch (yes, I know that’s cheating but its in the tool box, seems a waste not to use it).

We meet for lunch. I’m really pleased I bought the awning to put up shade for Emma. Its hot but there’s a breeze. Avocado and tomato sandwiches. We lay out the yoga mats as seats. We’ve not done any yoga yet, but the mats are useful to sleep on, sit on, as a massage bed and as a ground floor to the tent to make sure we’re not stepping on snakes or spiders. They make good padding too around fragile items in suitcases.

At every stop we set out the solar panel to charge up the leisure battery. For anyone who wants to know we got the kit from Holly Brook Power supplies.

I’ve also tried out the washing machine, which was suggested by two other travellers who are famous for the idea (I’ll look up their names when its not 3am in the morning before we set off again). It involves putting your clothes in a sealed container with water and washing powder and letting the rocky road shake everything up. I’m impressed my clothes come out pretty clean. Mike puts up an ingenious washing line for me.

Emma sets off at about 3pm after the heat of the day. She runs a total of 38 km, a gentle first day! She’s incredibly chipper at the end and offering to help.

Despite the emptiness of the desert there are animal prints and holes near our camping spot.

Robert gets a fire going and I cook chicken curry without the chicken. I deliberately choose foods that don’t waste water. We’re faffing around afterwards until Mike calls us over to see a baby puff adder. We must have almost parked on top of him. After that we decided boots were a must at night and to pack up and head to bed as soon as possible.